Where to Drink: Belgrade, Serbia 🇷🇸

My entire trip to Belgrade was inspired by a New York Times article about how the city is experiencing a "golden era of cocktails."

It was probably a lot of pressure to put on a city, but thankfully, the bars did live up to the hype. They weren't quite what I expected, though.

For starters, Employees Only, a legendary New York cocktail bar, doesn't loom like it does in the article.

I think only one person mentioned Dushan Zarić (its Serbian co-founder) to me—and that's because we were talking about industry things and I kind of brought it up. (I had just seen him speak the week before in Athens because the cocktail world is a small one, y'all.)

Anyway, all of this to say - You may not find any Belgrade bars on the international 'best of' lists but plenty of them rank high on mine.

Things to know about Belgrade cocktail bars

• Reservations are usually required. You might be able to walk in on weeknights, or at newer spots, but the popular bars fill up fast. Some of them will let you make reservations via Instagram, but others will require you to call.
• Everyone speaks English. Every bartender I met spoke English, and they spoke it well. It's not only easy to order, but also to have in-depth conversations with the folks behind the bar (or the one making your reservation).
• Everyone smokes everywhere... except in Russian-owned businesses. Bartenders kept adding "... and it's Russian-owned!" to their recommendations like that meant something. Turns out, that is code for "it's smoke-free and I assume that's what all Americans want." (They were not wrong. 😆)
• Many places are cash only. About half of the cocktail bars I went to didn't accept credit cards. I've tried to note as much when recommending them below... but it's a good idea to have some cash on hand in case you decide to pop in somewhere unexpectedly.

Bar Central

For a classic experience

Bar Central is probably the best known cocktail bar in town but they're still very casual. The decor is giving 'outdated chain restaurant' but there's a reason that this bar is a training ground for most bartenders in town. You can tell pretty quickly that it's a classic.

They'll make custom drinks based on your preferences, but I mostly stuck to their menu, which is full of standards that don't stray too far from the original. Their tequila-based Espresso Martini (made with a back stock of since-discontinued Cafe Patron liqueur) was the stand-out for me.

Reservation will likely be required, but you can make it via Instagram. I messaged them the morning of and they were quick to confirm but, when I showed up for my reservation, nearly every spot (bar included) had a reserved sign on it. Which tells me that while you need a reservation, you probably don't have to make it too far in advance.

🚬 Allows smoking
💳 Takes cards
📞 Res recommended

Ćilim Bar

For modern cocktails

A Saint Petersburg bartender who previously worked at Bar Central opened this spot just before I got to town. It's definitely the most modern cocktail bar I went to in Belgrade.

There's no bar seating, just small tables scattered around two small rooms. And while that's not my preference, I know a lot of people prefer it!

The menu is small but organized by flavor profile (botanical, fruity, etc.) so you have a pretty good idea of what you're getting even when looking at a list of minimalistic ingredients.

One standout though is an entire section dedicated to mushrooms—which really were worth their own section. 👀

🚭 Smoke free!
💳 Accepts credit cards
🚶🏻‍♀️ Can probably walk-in

Belgrade Cocktail Club

For speakeasy fans

A true speakeasy! Ring the bell outside to be let into a dark and cozy, old school space that's serving cocktails to match the Prohibition asthetic.

One thing that I thought was particularly interesting was the ability to upgrade certain cocktails to premium liquors. I usually only see that in Mexican restaurants upselling Patron for your margarita, but it makes sense in a country that still can't get their hands on everything—and has to price premium spirits accordingly.

There's just one long bar so expect to settle in and make conversation with the friendly bartenders, who really make this place what it is.

For this reason, I'd also keep your party small—1-3 people, tops. And make sure to make a reservation! I only got in because a bartender at Bar Central sweet-talked them into saving me a spot later in the night. 😎

🚬 Allows smoking
❗Cash only
📞 Res recommended

Riddle Bar

For a fun, social night

Maybe my favorite cocktail bar in town! No menu, just tell the bartender what you like and they'll make you something special with plenty of flair.

The drinks aren't all flash though. There was lots of variety in spirits and style and the bartenders were great at creating something to my taste.

The overall vibe is a little rowdy, super fun, and perfect for a last call. And that's somewhat due to the staff—Serbian bartenders are a treat everywhere, but I particularly enjoyed the guys here.

🚬 Allows smoking
💳 Accepts credit cards
📞 Res recommended

Idol Bar

For dinner with drinks

I saw a Reel recently about how there's a point in every trip where you just want Asian food (so true) so here's my pick for that moment.

Idol is another new-ish bar from Russian ex-pats, featuring tropical drinks and a full food menu of Asian-inspired apps and entrees. (All of which were bigger than I expected.)

They also get bonus points for committing to the theme—each drink comes in its own special glass. And not just any glass! Drinks named after Frida Khalo and Walter White came in ornate, carved mugs bearing their namesakes. Usually this kind of fun "extra" is making up for mediocre drinks, but here it just adds to the experience.

If you want a spot to linger over dinner and drinks in a smoke-free environment, this is your best bet.

🚭 Smoke free!
💳 Accepts credit cards
🚶🏻‍♀️Can probably walk-in

Looking for more recs?

I've included my annotated Google Map below.

This has all the deets for the bars above, plus a few more. And a handful of things to eat and do between drinks!

🗺️ Belgrade Google Map